Having rebooted our selves in The Land of Enchantment we headed towards Arizona and The Grand Canyon. We made it to Flagstaff, AR. where we spent the nigh in the frigid mountain climate in our favorite place, a hotel parking lot. We awoke bright-eyed and bushy-tailed ready for our adventure in the grandest of canyons. But first we hit up the most tasty breakfast where they served a heaping helping of beans, rice and a ha-uge cheese and egg burrito. Sooo good. For anyone in Flagstaff, hit up MartAnne’s breakfast spot…super tasty and very reasonably priced. We were only able to finish half of the food, but were excited to gobble up the rest later.

We met the loveliest waitress at the restaurant wearing a beautiful purple apron with embroidered flowers who gave us advice on where to take a shower. She told us, in a quite a conspiriatory  voice, that we could probably go down to the aquatic Center on first and walk right in to the locker room. We all had a good giggle talking about looking casual and getting in for free, but she gave us some good advice and we headed down the main street to the center.

Flagstaff is a great town, with lots of yummy places to eat, a stunning setting and plenty of hip, young peeps cruising around. Both Natalie and I loved it and want to go back. A cool tidbit about the town is that it was built along the railroad tracks that run along the south side of the town. As the town expanded it stayed mostly along the north side of the tracks as it is today, creating a long, extended town that is strange but compelling. The town has of course expanded across the tracks, but  majority of it still lies along the North side.

After we had a great shower at the super cool aquatic center, an indoor water park and gym, we hopped in the Tuna and drove up to The Grand Canyon, which was a quick 50 miles east and then north of the I-40. As we approached the park the traffic was a bit overwhelming. It was about 10 am when we got there but the lines were already twelve to twenty cars long. We took a deep breath and jumped in. After paying the fee, which wasn’t so bad, we weaved about the crowded parking lots to find a spot. There were so many people, all of whom waned to get there first, or fast or both. Staying calm was key.

We found a spot (good job Natalie) and packed our back packs full of water and salty snacks then headed out to the canyon. The first thought I had when I peered into the vast, colorful wonder of the world was, “I had no idea!” Because really, no matter how many pictures you see or stories you hear about this magical place they can not prepare for the real thing. It is amazing, mind blowing and so very special to see The Grand Canyon with your own eyes. And once you see it you realize that there is more then enough canyon for everyone. All of the stress of the tourists (that’s us too) and the lines and the hurrying just fades away and is replaced by the vastness of what lays before you. It’s just so dang big!

After walking around the paved walkway where most people first discover the canyon we decided we would strike out and walk the Rim Trail which fallows the rim of the canyon for 12 miles. It was a great walk and we found that just a few miles in most of the other people faded away and we had the trail to ourselves. It’s hard to gauge, but I think we walked about 5 to 8 miles, talking about this and that and admiring the view to our left as much as possible. Each time I looked up from the path I was surprised to see that endlessly deep, vividly colored canyon. Pictures, of course, cannot capture the vastness, but I took them anyway…

We were so beat after our flat land walk that we found a vista point that was also a bus stop and hopped on a bus back to the parking lots. We didn’t want to over do it the first day. One of the other passengers on the bus was a long distance runner visiting the canyon with his family and had just completed a 37 mile run from the top of the canyon down into it and out again. Can you imagine! 37 miles in the hot, dry unforgiving landscape! He looked a little tired, but for the most part fine.

We spent the night in the “town” outside of the park, in a hotel parking lot (surprise surprise) where I suffered first a bout of not being able “to go” so I ate like 20 dried apricots, and then soon after suffered a bout of going to much. Although it was not fun, having no bathroom of my own, Natalie and I laughed quit a bit that night as I came and went and many, many too many times! Thank goodness there was a forest around us…

The next day we headed back to the park and went directly to one of the trailhead’s that heads down into the canyon. We struck out with vigour. The way down was all fun and games, with amazing views the whole way and words of encouragement to those heading back up. We hiked about 5 miles in, stopping for salty snacks and water breaks, and stopped at what we were told was about the halfway point to the bottom. From there we could see the river and just make out the lodge by the river side. The hike back up was much, much harder and we both got sunburns but smiles were always present.

Well, I think that is enough of that, but seriously everyone has to go! Loves and hogs!!

Pics to come later….

We’ve made our way through the windy plains and into the beautiful state of New Mexico. The last three days we spent in the Taos area where we stayed with my Aunt Elida, my father Alton’s sister, and my uncle Alfie in their enchanting adobe house. We had our own guest room with a splendid view of the Taos valley and had the company or their small black and white cat, Chamyo. 

Elida and Alfie spent two days showing us around the area, which was a nice change from our wandering techniques. We drove up into the snowy mountains to see the ski lodge and the amazing aspen forests; out along the plateau to see the Earth Ships, houses made with recycled materials and adobe half buried in the earth; over the deep, majestic Rio Grande Gorge and all around the old parts of Taos where historical plaques decorate the ancient but well-kept adobe homes and hotels.

Many passionate discussions and tasty smells of curry and morning coffee filled my Aunts house while we stayed there, all enjoyable and informative. Many tears of joy were also shed. It was more than special to spend time with members of my family that I rarely see. Plus, we got to meet some truly lovely friends of theirs that sweetened the experience making it, on the whole, a cake, frosted and served with ice cream!

After two days and two nights spent with them, Easter Sunday we loaded our stuff back into the Tuna, said a teary goodbye and headed to Penasco, a short 45 minute drive south of Taos to the home of our Hog Farm sister Djuna. She and her boyfriend Ken live in the coolest house; an old general store made of grey wood and adobe. The front room is huge, where the store part was, and the back holds many spacious and magical rooms. They also have two of the cutest dogs, Frida and Herman. Frida is a Pug and Herman some type of wiry haired terrier that I mostly wanted to abscond.

We had a quick tour of their awesome house and then we all loaded up in the Tuna and headed up to Djuna’s moms (Oxygen) house in Llano, an area near Penasco, right next door to where the old Hog Farm property was for a tasty Easter lunch. Oxygen’s house is really cool; it’s an old adobe with curved walls and warm, close rooms full of art. We had a great lunch and then got to check out the old bus that used to be in the Hog Farm property next door, as well as Oxygen’s amazing collection of costumes and clothes stored in the sweetest work space that resembled a small airline hanger. After we poked around a bit more we headed back to Djuna’s house and then out for a nice post-lunch walk in the mountains. 

Natalie and I have been so overwhelmed by the kindness, genuine love, and genuine interest people have shown us on our trip. Being welcomed into homes with open arms where every thing we might want our need is given to us; having such love and support poured over us by our friends, family and even the strangers and new friends we have met; receiving endless amounts of encouragement that fills us to the brim, spilling out in the form of tears when we are over joyed by the love of everyone we come in contact with. We have literally been celebrated in every way and in every place we have been as if we were heroes in a parade, bannered and sprinkled with confetti and cheers.

So thank you everyone that has given us this unimaginable energy, this love as big as the state of Texas and a whole lot more interesting than that big windy state! I have only my limited vocabulary to express our thanks and appreciation, but words cannot describe the way we are filled with a golden light that spills out of us and back into this crazy world we live in. 

After our scrumshus meal and short but poignant visit with Djuna we once more hit the road, following Djuna’s excellent directions, down the mountains and through the exquisite valleys of New Mexico to the outskirts of Albuquerque where we spent the night in a hotel parking lot full of the cutest brush bunnies. I mean the freakin cutest little things you’ve ever seen! I saw one this morning that was, and I am not exaggerating, the size of a softball…dang, it wouldn’t let me pick it up.

We’re headed toward Arizona and the Grand Canyon in the next few days, and then on to Indio, CA. where we will be working for Biasha at a few festivals. Money! We need it!

Until my next post, hogs and loves!

Natalie and I had decided to dress up for the excursion which was fun and caused a bit of a stir with the other visitors. You would think that in a setting where people are spray painting half buried cars costumes would be a welcome sight. A few people thought it was cool, some gave us strange looks and most pretended we just weren’t there. It’s all about settings I suppose and that, apparently, is not a setting where costumes are worn.

It was lovely to dress up and have the Texas wind caress our skin, especially after so many hours of driving through endless flat landscapes. We brought the hula hoops out and had a blast just walking round the cars, hula-hooping and taking pictures. We may have frightened a few folks with our short shorts and hoops, but it was probably good for them to see something different and new. I mean, they were spray painting cars for the love of god!

Spray paint cans littered the surrounding area which was a little strange, but most of them were still usable, able to be picked up and sprayed onto the cars. Another layer added to the fantastic patina of neon and metallic paint. 

We’ve made it to Taos, NM and are taking a rest in a warm little coffee shop click clicking away on our computers. We woke up in the town of Tunamacari, or something like that, along the I-40 and headed out on a tiny little scenic road that cuts through the dessert from there to Las Vegas, NM. Sparse, that is how I would describe the scenery. Beautiful, but sparse and windy! When we got up it was warm enough for a skirt and stretch pants, but as we made our way towards Taos it became colder and colder turning from blue skies to rain and then, as we headed over the pass from Las Vegas to Taos it began to snow! Just a little at first, the more, then we saw a snow plow on the side of the road and began to be a bit worried. A few minutes later there was snow everywhere! We should have checked the weather! But the Tuna persevered and here we are in Taos, safe and warm looking up a Hostel for showers and beds. 

Tomorrow We will be meeting up with my Aunt Elida and Uncle Alfie, which I am very excited about! We will be staying there for a day or two then heading down to Penasco, NM to visit with Djuna. 

We’re both happy to be headed west towards our home, but enjoying the dessert, the company and the challenge that is our road trip!

Until my next post, hogs and loves!

The last few days have been punctuated by dry, flat plains, scrubby bush-trees not yet ladened with green leaves and churches. So many churches! We spent most of yesterday truckin through Oklahoma (not my favorite state so far) trying not to get weirded out by the many, and might I say boring looking, churches.

Stop here if you attend church and don’t want to be offended!

It is truly scary at how many churches there are and how little of anything else. No libraries or skating rinks; very few community centers and very few outlets for youth or anyone else. It’s not surprising that a majority of the country is so closed-minded; there isn’t much to open a mind! I commend those who make it out with open minds! Good job to the youth who look beyond the fifty churches if Christ to see the WHOLE rest of the world. At one point I thought about just driving right through the next boring, white “Church of Christ” that I saw. But I didn’t want to be chased out of town by pitch forks and fire…

Oh, and the billboards stating, “You call it abortion, God calls in Murder!” No thanks! I think “God” doesn’t give a crap about it! But that’s just a sinners perspective. My favorite so far was, “Jesus Christ is not a swear word!” Dang, what am I going to say now? And I’m sorry if I’ve offended anyone, but I had to say it!  

Anyway, having said that, the plains are beautiful even if they are sparse in greenery and open minds. At one point we stopped in at the largest, most fancy rest stop we had seen (in Texas). It was a huge glass and metal structure tucked into the side of a hill. We thought it was a bit over kill for a rest stop but then understood when we saw the signs onside stating, “Tornado Shelter.” It felt safe inside. 

We also saw the “Largest Cross in the Western Hemisphere!” It was large, scary and we hoped a tornado would come by and take it down a notch. At least that one in Brazil is pleasant to look at. This thing resembled a large piece of machinery. 

We’re headed to the Cadillac Ranch after I post, which should prove to be a more pleasant metal sculpture. It consists of several Cadillacs stuck nose down into the dirt that visitors are allowed to paint on. Yeah! We’re headed to a paint store on our way there!

Until my next post, loves and hogs!

On our way there we stumbled across a peanut pride fair in Blakely, AL and stopped in for some fried PB and J’s, some sweet country sung by a cute little blond and a little southern people watching. They sure do love there peanuts in Blakely! They even had a “peanut powered” truck that resembled a semi…impressive!

After Opelika we covered some real distance, driving  all the way to Memphis, TN, where we spent another night in our favorite place: a trucker pull out! Crazy! It’s always fun trying to find a place to hop-a-squat in the morning! The night hides all… 

We woke up early the next morning and headed to Graceland to check out the home of Mr. Elvis Presley. Really a very modest home, for a celebrity, surrounded by not-to-impressive brownish lawns, a rock wall covered in love notes and prayers for you know who, which in turn is surrounded by fast food restaurants and gas stations where you can purchase fried chicken. 

Let me just say, there is no end to fried chicken in the south. I mean mountains of fried chicken and of course burgers. Mmmm hmmm. Oh yeah, and Bar-B-Q.

Anywhoo…back to Graceland. Soooo, we didn’t actual go inside the property, per say, but more loitered around the outside of it because it costs $30 to go inside! I mean really people! And, if you pay the fee you have to wait in a line on the opposite side of the street, get on a tour bus and then ride the 500 feet across the street and up the driveway to the house where you then go on the tour. It’s silly. I suppose that’s how they make sure you’ve paid the $30 to go on the tour. Your not allowed to walk across and up the driveway, even if you have paid. You have to take a shuttle. I can only imagine the monotony of being those drivers. Regardless we enjoyed ourselves just hanging outside the property and I spent my $30 on sa-weet memorabilia at the gift shop…

After that we headed west and have passed into Arkansas where we have stopped over in Little Rock for coffee, internet and (hopefully) showers! Oh my goodness I smell particular!

Sorry it’s been a bit since my last check in…Natalie and I have been getting some serious R and R here in Tallahassee, Fl. We’ve been staying at the home of one of her friends, Jesse’s family home. Jesse’s family has welcomed us with open arms, even giving us the run of their guest house where we each get our own room, endless showers and television! Jane and R.E. are Jesse’s parents and Dylan and Gavin are his younger brothers who still live at home. They are all such lovely people and more than happy to have us around. It’s been so nice to be in one place for more than a day. 

Their home has been in the family for several generations and is 160 years old. Solid, beautiful and surrounded by endless lush gardens, this place is amazing! We arrived on the second day of spring, the very nicest time of year, bringing the spring bloom with us as well as, unfortunately, clouds of pollen (sneeze time). Through the nearby pine forest you can just spy a large lake in the distance; the squirrels are out in full force bounding through the blooming bushes and trees; the bees are buzzing and the birds flitting through the trees. 

An hour before we reached their home the Tuna began to have some troubles. I was driving and noticed, all of a sudden, that the clutch began to have very little resistance and I began having serious difficulty shifting into gears, especially first and second. By the time we reached Tallahassee I was having to use two hands to ram the gear shift into first and we literally just made it to our destination with our hazard lights on. Nightmares of super-expensive clutch replacing auto shop visits began filling our head, but we thanked the stars above to have made it to our friends house. Our hosts were great, giving us the name and number of a friend who would fix the problem, whatever it was, without taking advantage of us. After settling in to our adorable guest quarters, Natalie called Eamon, her brother, to describe what had happened. Ever the super hero with all the answers, he was able to diagnose the problem over the phone. Well not the exact problem, but dang close! He let us know that it was most likely a leak somewhere of our clutch fluid, and not to worry, it was not going to need a new clutch and or a new transmission (god forbid!). We think you’re the best Eamon!

The next day we limped the Tuna to the shop and had the part replaced, a new oil change and were on our way with a small charge of $174! Thank you angles above and flying by our sides! While the Tuna was being tuned up we took a stroll to the capitol building, Tallahassee being the state capitol, had some sushi, saw a very lively rally concerning school funding and got to enjoy the loveliness tat is downtown Tallahassee. It really is a beautiful, lush pollen covered town. 

There were a few cool coincidences about Tallahassee and ourselves. For one, the place our guests lived was on Rose Hill, Natalie Rose, and the town has a lake called Lake Ella! One of our guests dogs was also named Ella! Cool!

The next day we went to the Tallahassee museum of Natural History where we saw lots of native animals, all rescue cases unable to be released back into the wild. A red fox; a bald eagle; two black bears; two Pumas; a few grey fox and many many reptiles. later that evening we attended a Florida state baseball game ( GO Seminoles!!) and then stayed up till the wee hours watching bad love movies. Both the tickets for the museum and the baseball game were provided by our wonderful guests. All in all a great portion of our trip! The worst part being that we had to leave. Both Natalie and I fell in love with the family, the town and their beautiful home. 

I’m writing from a Starbucks in Columbus, Georgia, where we’ve stopped for a moment of caffeine and interweb use. Another day another few miles!

In Alabama we found a small thrift shop, just really getting set-up, including what we were told was an impromptu church in the back. It was run by husband and wife, one of which we think was the preacher. They really were the loveliest of people, kind, interested in our travels and our RV, funny and full of life. They both came out and ogled over the Tuna, asking if we might be interested in selling her (we get this constantly…earlier that morning from a teenage boy in New Orleans!), and then just loving every inch of it. the wife gave us both huge hugs and then prayed for us right on the spot. Neither Natalie or I are religious per say, but it would be a shame not to mention the goosebumps her prayers gave me. So much love and kindness in her words. She just kept telling us how lucky were are to get to have this experience.

Another highlight: finding a co-op health food store in Pensacola! We’ve been on the look out for good produce, a challenging thing to find outside of Cali, and it’s always great to stumble across a health food store. Ever’Mans was the name, and it even had that smell; vitamins, grains and good produce. We might be hippies I’m not sure…

The only other thing I have to report was the pick attempt I had to bare this morning at 8 am. i had just crawled out of the Tuna, puffy eyes ( had a strong night cap), unbrushed teeth (i hadn’t brushed them yesterday either), and wild hair that I was trying to tame with a few bobby pins when this younger man walks over to check the Tuna out. He, of course, wanted to buy it and then proceeded to ask for my number and if he could call me. A bit flustered and still half asleep, I answered, with a smile,”No.” He then said, in a some what whiny voice, “But I’ll never see you again!” I had to laugh. He then said, “You still pretty though.” So even though it was an abrupt morning interaction, I appreciated it, cause honestly…I looked like hell!

Until my next post, Hogs and loves to all!!

The redeeming bits of bourbon street: the awesomeness that is a gay bar and hot beignets covered in powdered sugar, washed down with a bit of hot cocoa. After wandering down to the end of Bourbon street, past the karaoke bars and mounds of beads for sale I saw a tall, blued wigged black man standing outside of a bar, turned to Natalie and said, “That’s where we’re going.” We found honest interactions and great music. Then we walked to the water, froze our butts off and warmed them up with hot sweets dropping powdered sugar across the front of our jackets as we made our way back to the trolly. 

We have one more full day here, and the on to Georgia, Alabama and eventually Florida. The Tuna keeps us moving, our sleeping bags keep us cozy and our bulk food keeps us full. Till my next post, hogs and loves!!!

After spending our last night in Texas, just east of Beaumont, in another trucker parking lot (safe but dang, no bathrooms!), we hit the road early and headed into the real south, stopping for a swamp tour in the city of Lafayette. That morning we both arose tired and a bit cranky, but by the time we had scheduled the tour, checked out a bit of bayou our spirits rode high and smiles and giggles filled the Tuna.

We made a date to have our swamp tour with a man I will call here Swamp Marcus. Natalie found him online, after a long drawn out, confusing bit of interaction trying to get online through Starbucks (annoying!!). Side note: We are continually surprised at the challenges we face when trying to get online. The day of Internet Cafes are over, replaced by hoops and fast food restaurants we’d rather not jump through or eat at.

Sooooo, back to Swamp Marcus. Natalie looked at the different sites for swamp tours and showed me Swamp Marcus’s, saying “I like his site the best. It seems the most authentic.”  And oh, how she was right.

We found Rookery Rd., the dirt and gravel covered road that hugged the north side of Lake Martin where we took the swamp tour, and drove slowly down while peering to our left into the swamps full of white herons, baby gators and green swaths of water plants. I love seeing trees growing straight out of the water. There is something very  magical about those cypress and tupelo trees reaching their grey trunks high from the thick, warm southern waters into the blue skies. 

On our way to the rendezvous point we stopped to take some pictures and, lickity split, were asked if we would like a picture of a raging cajun by an obvious raging cajun;

 sun burned, gapped toothed and friendly as heck. Saying “no thank you” we moved on and found the boat landing where we met Swamp Marcus. 

Now let me tell you, I had a ten  minute conversation, via cell phone with this man when making our reservation, about the importance of the right training for hunting dogs. Needless to say, he brought his dogs; two adults and one adorable puppy who slept in my backpack for the tour. The tour was amazing; he took us all over in places that other tours weren’t going with all the details on animals and plants and environmental issues that might concern the swamps. He was a classic combination of environmentally concerned citizen and your good ol’ southern boy who wants to build tree houses in the swamp and throw orange peels into the water (“It’s biodegradable.” In like 60 years!!). 

We were feeling pretty stoked on the thorough tour until the sun began to set, goose bumps emerged on our shorts-clad legs, and Swamp Marcus had, for the eighth ninth time shut the engine down so we could drift silently in the swamps to really enjoy it. He explained, again, about his life and his entrepeneurial aspirations all the while our stomachs growled and our bodies grew colder. Finally, Natalie, after many random fits of laughter, mentioned her growing hunger pains and her desire to head back to shore. He didn’t respond, straight faced watching the sunset, and instead he began describing his wild brunch which consisted of bacon, sautade vegetables in a omelette, wrapped in a tortilla, drenched in sour cream and cheese and then heated in the oven. Natalie held her breath for a moment and then laughed out loud. He thought we were laughing at his dog. 

He finally brought us back to shore, where we quikely hopped in and headed to a tasty dinner and a warm bed. 

We might love it here more than Austin!!

We’ve had such a lovely time here in Austin; staying in the very comfortable and accomidating hostel; taking showers everyday; having tasty treats Austin style; meeting many cool and interesting people, young and old; and just enjoying the beauty that is this city. It’s pretty amazing to come to a city like Austin in the middle of a place like Texas. 

Austin has the same feeling as San Francisco, Berkeley or any other cool hipster town, except that the people are even cooler and hipper than those in other cities. It may just be that there is the South by Southwest music fest happening so all the cool-sters are here to partake, including about a million music artists, but seriously the coolness is almost painful. I’m not sure I’ve seen so many skinny jeans in one place before. Plus it’s so casual. You know, “I look soooo hip, but it’s soooo casual. I just woke up, rolled out of bed and basically looked amazing.” I’m not sure I’m cool enough for this place!

last night Natalie and I got to attend a free concert for Ozomotli, which we were both super excited about. We danced our little butts off to ever song, regardless of the looks of scorn from all directions. I’ve never seen a less excited crowd for Ozo. I would say 85% of the crowd consisted of people under the age of 18, all of which were much to angsty to be bothered with dancing. It was unfortunate because Natalie nd I have both seen how much fun people can have when really gettin’ down to Ozo. The redeeming factor: two elementary age girls in the front with Natalie and I who, at first, kept looking at us with frightend faces, but by the end were groovin’ right along with us, looking back with big smiles. 

A side note: the style for teenagers here, but really across the country is somewhat silly. It’s gone past eighties right into “how dorky can I look?” Jean on jean outfits; tight uncomfortable looking pants or shorts; weird pre-pubescent mustaches; funny little shoes; combination haircuts that join mullets, bowl cuts and something else I can’t even name; and of course many other awkward bits of flare to numerous to chronical here. Our very favorite was a boy we dubbed “braid boy.” He had the mustache, the tight shorts and a little braid hanging down past his short haircut. He was the very dorki